Called Innovea, the network will aim to secure long-term supplies of coffee and improve climate resilience through breeding.

BY CHRIS RYAN
BARISTA MAGAZINE ONLINE

Photos courtesy of World Coffee Research

Last month, during the Sintercafe coffee expo in Costa Rica, industry nonprofit World Coffee Research (WCR) made an announcement with much potential to impact coffee’s future for the better.

The news: WCR has launched Innovea, a global breeding network of nine countries that will “transform global coffee breeding and accelerate the pace of genetic improvement,” per a press release from WCR. They chose the Innovea name by combining “innovation” with Coffea, the plant name of the coffee species, so the name loosely translates to “coffee innovation.”

“Coffee faces a crisis of innovation that makes the industry’s sustainability, quality, and supply assurance goals impossible to achieve if we stay on the path we are on,” says WCR CEO Dr. Jennifer (Vern) Long in the press release. “But as we have seen with COVID-19, incredible solutions to urgent, global problems are made possible with scientific collaboration.”

Close up of a man's hands. He holds coffee flowers gently. The petals are small, long and white, on a long skinny green stalk. The flowers grow in small clusters in a circle around the stem at intervals.
Collecting pollen from male flowers to make cross-pollinations to generate new plants. The Innovea network will aim to accelerate the pace of genetic improvements in coffee.

‘Coopetition’ Not Competition

Collaboration is indeed the name of the game for the Innovea network. Dr. George Kotch, WCR’s former research director, has decades of experience managing global breeding programs. He joined WCR in 2020 and knew he faced a challenge in shaping the new network: Coffee-producing countries are competing with one another, and asking them to collaborate on a breeding network is not an easy sell.

The resulting solution is a “coopetition” model—which Dr. Kotch developed using his experience with other commodities—that allows producing countries to collaborate on breeding but remain competitive overall. “We listened really carefully to our partners who communicated this reality that they face, which is that scientific collaboration sounds like a great aspiration, but it’s not always a realistic opportunity for them,” Dr. Long says in an interview with Barista Magazine Online. “And so this model is really designed to drive value for countries but also allow them to be competitive.”

The same man's hands, putting something in a plastic sample vial with a kind of Q-tip implement.
Creating new crosses through hand-pollination at WCR’s Flor Amarilla Research Farm in El Salvador. Innovea will seek to create new and unique genetic combinations that have not been seen before in coffee.

So what will the new network offer participating countries? According to the WCR press release, the network will give them “unrestricted access to new genetic materials, training in modern breeding approaches, and shared tools while also connecting researchers across national boundaries to achieve results that would be impossible for programs working in isolation.”

Fostering Opportunities

The opportunities afforded by the network may be transformative for producing countries. “The network brings together a wide diversity of high-performing varieties from Africa, Asia, and the Americas that have never been bred together before,” says Dr. Senthil Kumar, director of research at the Central Coffee Research Institute (CCRI), in the press release. “India is enthusiastic about the opportunities this network provides for us to develop varieties that address farmers’ needs and to ensure our success in achieving climate resilience.”

A group of people stand in a semicircle on a hill. There is a WCR banner in the background, trees on the outskirts of the hill, and more hills behind.
Members of WCR’s board of directors, guests, and researchers from the nine invited participating countries at the site of the Innovea breeding factory at CATIE in Costa Rica.

The new network will strengthen not just coffee producers, of course. The whole coffee supply chain stands to benefit from improved varieties—including specialty-coffee roasters, whose businesses depend on reliable supplies of high-quality coffee. James McLaughlin, president and CEO of Chicago-based Intelligentsia Coffee and the current vice chair of WCR’s board, says, “I think that Innovea is the single most exciting thing happening in coffee right now. We as an industry have under-invested in coffee agricultural research, and the threats that our industry is facing with climate change are really grave.” With the new network, James explains, “I believe we’re going to produce varieties that are next level in terms of quality, productivity, and climate resistance.”

Though the network is now in motion, the results will not be immediate, as breeding programs take time. WCR estimates that some countries in the network could release new varieties as early as 2033, though most will take several more years.

You can find more about the new Innovea network here.

The post World Coffee Research Launches Global Coffee Breeding Network appeared first on Barista Magazine Online.

This article was first published here.

Welcome to winter in the Nordics, where comfort and coziness are sacred rituals.

BY JOSEPH PHELAN
SPECIAL TO BARISTA MAGAZINE ONLINE

Featured image courtesy of Joseph Phelan

The people of Northern Europe take Christmas particularly seriously. For those who reside in the Nordics, it is more than just an opportunity to take a few days off work and indulge in some hearty food; it is a time dedicated to embracing tradition, community, and an appreciation of the small things.

It is also a period during which coffee routinely takes center stage. The Nordics are coffee crazy at the best of times—Finland, Norway, Iceland, and Denmark are the four largest consumers of coffee per capita, with Sweden sixth — but at Christmastime, things step up a level. In this part of the world, coffee is as much a part of the festive season as Santa Claus, carol singing, and candy canes.

An outdoor market at night in Sweden. There are umbrellas and strings of electric lights clustered around Tudor style buildings, with greenery and snow on the ground.
A winter market in Malmö, Sweden. Photo by Alex Ghiurau via Unsplash.

A Cultural Experience

“If you’ve been here in the winter months, you’ll know how dark and cold it is,” says Klaus Thomsen, co-founder of Coffee Collective in Frederiksberg, Denmark. “I think we’ve historically needed some kind of warm liquid to heat us up, especially during the winter months when there’s only a few hours of sunlight. We often need that caffeine to keep us awake and alert!“

Klaus continues, “But it has also played a huge social role as a gathering point for people. In the religious parts of the countries, coffee was a more accepted beverage to serve to guests than beer or alcohol, and over time the appreciation of filter coffee, mostly brewed with Melitta paper filters and automatic brewers, also helped to highlight nuances in the coffee. This, in turn, provided the backbone to the Nordic specialty-coffee movement and our style of lighter-roasted coffees.”

A Christmas present, a warm drink in a festive mug, and shortbread cookies shaped liked snowflakes on a white tablecloth with tiny fairy lights on string.
In Nordic countries, coffee and baked goods go hand in hand.
Photo by Becky Fantham via Unsplash.

Over the last century, as coffee has become easier to import in bulk routinely, it has grown in popularity across the Nordics. What’s more, the countries in this region, especially Sweden and Denmark, have had a long association with sweet pastries—klenät, smultring, and tebirkes being three of the most popular—and once the humble coffee bean found its way to their shores, Nordic residents quickly discovered that coffee and sweet treats make for perfect bedfellows.

Today, the drink has become so culturally embedded that rarely will there be a social gathering without coffee being present. “It has taken over as the primary source of the liquid we gather around, at least before 6 p.m.,” says Jonas Gehl of Prolog Coffee Bar in København, Denmark. “This tends to be filter coffee. It has taken some years for the espresso machine to find its way to bars and households, but it is becoming more popular.”

A man smiles behind the counter at a cafe. There is a sugar skull with reindeer antlers on the counter, stickers galore on the back of the espresso machine, and a bouquet of pink flowers beside it.
A look at the holiday spirit inside Next Door Cafe in København, Denmark.
Photo courtesy of Next Door Cafe.

Christmas Coziness

Across the Nordics, coffee and being snug go hand in hand. Hygge, a Danish word that denotes a feeling of coziness, contentment, and warmth, is especially prevalent during the cold winter months, and coffee has a central role in how people attain it.

“Cafés are very popular in our culture largely because of the light and weather conditions,” says Skyler Rowland of Next Door Cafe in København, Denmark. “I suspect people are seeking refuge from the cold and dark. People go out holiday shopping and visit the Christmas markets, and then they warm up with a cozy coffee. It’s affordable entertainment—a coffee with a friend doesn’t cost much, but it’s fun!”

The post Christmas and Coffee in the Nordics: Part One appeared first on Barista Magazine Online.